Ham Radio Isn’t Cheap
Much like shooting, ham radio is expensive. I think all fun hobbies are. But after spending $820 for the radio, I wasn’t in the mood (or the financial state) to drop another $100 to $150 on an Alinco Power Supply. Slick as spit, but not worth it.
So, here is what I came up with:
My power supply has the following features:
- Hacker cred. I put it together, and it looks nice and works great, on 2M at least.
- Dual USB ports, for keeping a phone topped off.
- A cigarette lighter, for powering/charging a baofeng or anything 12V compatible.
- Dual Anderson Powerpoles on the rear, for the ham’s favorite 12V connector
- Uses a standard computer power supply cable.
So, here is my Bill of Materials:
- Anderson PowerPole Connectors
- Anderson PowerPole Chassis Mount
- PC Power Supply Socket
- USB\Car Charger Socket
- 12V 30A Regulated PC Powersupply
- Plano 121202 Shotshell Dry Box
A few build notes:
- I crimped the powerpoles using my standard channelock wire strippers and then soldered them with my hakko. This gives about as good as a connected as you can get.
- I used standard spade connectors (though mine are from Menards), again crimped and soldered, to connect everything to the power supply unit.
- Most ham radios expect 13.8VDC, instead of the 12V this one was outputting. That’s okay, there’s a dandy reostat you can use to adjust the output power. I had mine set for 13.81V and its drifted to 13.84/5. I suspect it has to do with the construction and actually powering the unit up. However, my 857 will tolerate a +/- 10% range, so eh. I’ll adjust it again the next time I fire it up.
- Take care when making the AC Mains connections. I am using a cut\trimmed piece of a PC power cord, with crimped and soldered spade terminals connected to the socket and to the power supply unit. I used some push on connecters to make a removable/solid connection to my socket, then put heat shrink over the arrangement to make sure I had removed and electrocution hazard, as best as possible. 14VDC will tickle, 120VAC will kill, and hurt the entire time.
- Cut outs for the Chassis mount and PC powersupply socket were done with an x-acto knife, a ruler, and a little bit of caliper work. Everything fits perfectly. Lay out the holes you need, then visually check the marks are in the right place. Make light passes with the x-acto to cut through the plastic of the dry box.
- This is such a gadgety thing, but it makes doing zip ties so much easier, tighter, and with practice the cut offs cleaner.
The total cost of the arrangement? Not counting the sundries I had on hand, $54.04. Not bad, a third of the cost and quite a bit more fun. You could do this even cheaper if you skipped the power powerpoles and the other features, but charging phones is good. When I first made it, I had the radio and a cut off power cord running directly to the power supply unit. It worked, and worked well, but I wanted to make things cleaner for sure.
Questions? Comments? Leave them below. 73, and good night all.
Edit: I posted this to /r/amatuerradio and generated a fair response. I would like to highlight Megas3300’s RF Choke. This is probably needed for mine as well, but so far I’ve only used this on VHF. A proper HF antenna system awaits.
[…] would add and document in a later post. Initially I though I would pull the server supply out of this box and mount it to finish out the calendar year, then purchase a solution like the Samlex closer to […]
I’m loking for a cheap way out to power and second transceiver. Your Power Supply looks good and cheap. However, I m worried about noise caused by a switching power supply. How bad was it? Thanks, Tony
It worked out alright for the cost. The lower you get into HF the more present the noise will be.
When looking for a power supply, size is one of the most important considerations. It affects not just the price but also the overall performance. Picking the wrong size means that you are compromising functionality. It will be under-powered.